OSM tips for new mappers

I've only recently joined the conversation over at the OSM Newbies mailing list. Common threads of discussion from new OSM users include, I'm enthusiastic; there is so much to read on the wiki; is there a short-cut document for newbies?.

Some reference material for new contributors include the beginners' section on the wiki.

Dan O'Hara has helpfully compiled some pointers he calls:

OSM Mapping for Dummies

By: Dan O'Hara, detectist@yahoo.com.au

Here are some tips for new starters. Importantly these notes include a little etiquette! The notes below are based on Potlatch, if you are whiz bang with computers and mapping go for JOSM or one of the other options. There is much more but this note is really for the very beginners.
1. Collecting data – switch off “Lock on road” or “Snap to road” on your GPS – you will only copy the map ... not where you’ve been!
   If you have the time and inclination collect more data about where you are and what the thing you are mapping is eg note the street names, road and track surfaces etc in your GPS or other recording device (or notebook if you keen). You are creating intellectual property and giving data to OSM. You are not supposed to use another map to copy from even street names! I use waypoints and some of these are actually POIs (which can also be useful for POI sites such as POIDB.com too!).
2. If you just want to submit a track: just do it. Eventually someone will trace over it but tracing is easy if yours is the only track - you just click and drag a line to follow the thin wobbly green/bluish line (which is your track), clicking for each main movement away from a straight line. You might need a few nodes (ie trackpoints) for bends and turns. Upload your track/trace (ie a gpx file) from here: http://www.openstreetmap.org/traces make it public then choose the “edit” tab, convert GPS track to ways on the “edit with save” option. Do NOT edit live.
3. Clean up your tracks before uploading ie if you wander around at the start of a track remove the excess. Similarly if you stop for lunch and move along viewpoint edges for an even better photo etc and then wander off into the scrub for some relief the world does not need to see everywhere you’ve been. The info uploaded must still be “raw” ie actual tracks, but a bit of tidying up is fine.
4. Break up your uploads into smaller files – if something stuffs up it isn’t as much of a pain to delete, reload and retrace etc. Pick your local area to have a look at and see what traces have been made of local tracks – how long they were, what POIs were included, how the traces are described (see tagging points below).
5. Do NOT start making additions/changes to the map until the message in the top right corner that says “loading data” goes away. Similarly, wait for the message at the bottom left of the map that says “transferring data” looks as though it has stopped too. Have patience.
6. When your mouse pointer changes from a nib to a finger that indicates that someone has been there before you. If there is another coloured line then someone has been there before you. Hit the 2nd left bottom button in the bottom left area (looks like a mobile phone) with a mouse click or press “g” on your keyboard to see all traces (to see only your traces hold shift then press “g”). Be careful here - you do not want to change someone else’s trace – particularly if it’s outside their front door! If you think a change is necessary go into history of the way (bottom left of screen under the “Advanced” (editing options) button) and look at the traces, closely – take care not to revert the way to a previous version. Sometimes it may be better to leave your track there and others can see it and if necessary someone else will eventually check out any discrepancy. (The “History” tab at the top of the map screen isn’t working properly it appears.)
7. Sometimes the track someone else has done is a trace of satellite imagery (see tagging below) (Landsat and Yahoo Imagery are ok to use for this for copyright purposes– but NOT Google). If you’ve used a GPS you can be more assured (but not totally) that your trace will be more accurate, but still ask the first mapper. Try to check the history. If you are fairly certain it’ll be ok and you need to add a few twists and turns in the trace this can be done by adding points to the existing trace, by shift clicking on the trace at the spot you want to move, and then drag the new spot to the new position.
8. You can delete your mistakes – best before you save but can be done afterwards too. Pressing “z” undoes the changes you have made (unless you have saved). In cases where I have really stuffed it up I delete the entire track, go back into Mapsource (or equivalent GPS track and map editor), fix, then re-upload. If yours is the only information it is particularly important that you reload.
9. When you tag make sure you put in the source of your information. GPS is the first option given, there is also survey and few others. This gives people some assurance of the validity of the information collected.
10. IMPORTANT – When tagging, keep two printouts with you – Map Features (http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/index.php?title=Map_Features) and (in my case) Australian Tagging Guidelines (http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/index.php?title=Australian_Tagging_Guideli...)
    Printable versions can be obtained from the toolbox on the left hand side of the OSM window.
11. Some tags do not seem sensible sometimes – give it time and think about all the variations that might occur and you’ll come to understand that perhaps some aren’t as silly as they seem in the first place eg bushwalking tracks – tag “highway=footway” and for track sections along fire trails “highway=track” . Have a think about it. When I think these sorts of things are not quite right I add a description tag and so can add a few extra words. Hopefully a more experienced OSMer will understand your message and apply the “right” answer and if yours is the only information then it is as right as it can be and much better than no information.
12. When positioning POIs zoom in to see if you are the only person who has done it and make sure you put it in the right place. In more sophisticated programs than Potlatch, like JOSM and Merkaartor, you can put in lats and longs for POIs. Potlatch provides symbols for some POIs – just click and drag to the position.
13. When you save your traces again be patient. Your changes will be saved and will show up but it may take a little while. OSM is a worldwide accessible site and has peak periods eg end of weekends and Mondays etc. For example it may take 30 minutes or so to show up in the Osmarender option (see the “+” sign upper right area) but it may not show up in the “View” tab for a week (ie regeneration happens each Thursday apparently). Some POIs/nodes may take a fortnight to show up.
14. Finally, read, read, read and talk, talk, talk.
    http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Recording_GPS_tracks
    http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Editing_GPX_Tracks
    http://forum.openstreetmap.org/index.php contains a stack of forums including one specifically for Australia.
    http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Main_Page - contains Beginners Guide
    http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Mailing_lists - very popular email “forums” There is one for Australia and also for newbies. I recommend both.
    Potlatch/Primer (http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Potlatch/Primer)
    Do other searches for JOSM and Merkaartor.
15. On a final, final note – Don’t do this when you are tired!!
    I wish to thank RRover (Darylr) and Drlizau who are both members of GPS Australia and OSM. They have been very patient with me and have provided a lot of assistance to me in my OSM mapping and in the writing of this guide.

Thank you, Dan!